The Equipment I Use
This is a list of all the materials, tools, and equipment I use on my adventures in the tabletop hobby, including the gear I use behind the scenes to produce my videos. As I’m still learning, and the landscape of the hobby is ever changing, this list is constantly in flux. I will try to list everything I’ve featured in my videos as well as tools that have yet to make an appearance.
I don’t claim to be an expert. The items listed here are not necessarily the best in their class. They are simply what can recommend through personal experience. As I become aware of better products, I will update this list to reflect that.
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Miniature Prep and Painting
X-ACTO Knife (Hobby Knife): Nothing is more synonymous with cutting things than an X-ACTO knife, sometimes called a hobby knife or scalpel. If you need small, precise cuts, this is what you reach for. It is also surprisingly good at cleaning models.
Citadel Fine Detail Cutters: I fell in love with these cutters the moment I tried them. They cut plastic bits from the sprue smooth and easily and have an exceptional build quality to them. The only downside I can see is that some people may find the handle uncomfortable, though that hasn’t been an issue for me.
Army Painter Miniature and Model Drill: This is perfect for drilling into plastic and other small or soft objects, and allows for plenty of control. Just make sure you create a pilot hole!
Army Painter Drill Bit Set: The Army Painter Miniature and Model Drill comes with some bits, but notably is missing 2mm and 3mm. This set gives you everything you need. Above 3mm and it might be time to consider another solution.
While I have been using Citadel’s files up to this point, the Army Painter Model Files are just a better value, and provides a better diversity of applications.
Magnets: What You See is What You Get (WYSIWYG) Games like Warhammer 40K make magnets a must if you don’t want to lock yourself down. I find 2mm, 3mm, and 5mm discs will cover 99% of your needs. I prefer 1mm thickness where possible, but 2mm won’t be an issue for most applications.
If you magnetize lots of small bits or the arms of infantry units, then you’ll need lots of 2x1mm Disc Magnets to keep you going. You’d be surprised how quickly you work through 300 of these.
Despite only a 50% increase in diameter than the 2x1mm, these 3x1mm Disc Magnets are much stronger and able to handle much larger jobs then their smaller siblings. Think vehicle size weapons, mechanical limbs, and more.
When in doubt, bust out the 5x2mm Disc Magnets. These will handle any job where magnets are appropriate. For instance, I used them to attach my Astra Militarum Sentinel’s torso to it’s legs, and these aren’t about to let go. If 5x2mm isn’t big enough for what you’re trying to do, you can jump up to these 10x2mm Disc Magnets, but it might be time to consider if other methods, such as pinning, would be more appropriate.
General Equipment
Proxxon Hot Wire Cutter: This hot wire cutter is easy to setup and use, and allows for quick and precise replication of measured cuts.
3D Printing
I’ve only just gotten into 3D printing, and my personal experience is limited to a single model of resin printer, but as my knowledge of this niche of the hobby grows, so will this section.
Elegoo Mars 3: I have a whole video on this one. It’s incredibly easy to get running and the print quality is exceptional. Ideal for miniatures and other prints that won’t be put under any significant strain.
Elegoo Mercury X Bundle: This is a package of convenience. The washer doesn’t do anything that can’t be done with a small tub and a toothbrush, and arguably the agitator can’t get every nook you need it too, but it does make the process of cleaning your prints easier. The UV Curer, on the other hand, feels like a must have. Everything I’ve put through this has come out evenly cured, and the shielding keeps those nasty UV rays at bay.
Elegoo Water Washable Resin: I haven’t compared this to standard resin, but with how convenient it is I might just never be bothered to. Not having to use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean models simplifies a great deal of the cleanup process, and as far as I can tell you should expect comparable detail and rigidness from this resin.
Workspace
Everyone needs a comfortable place to work. The items in this category are about making the place you do your hobbying more constructive for you.
FIskars Self Healing Cutting Mat: It’s far cheaper to replace a mat than a desk/table/counter. These mats are great for protecting your work surface, and the built in grid and guide lines are a great plus.
Neatfi LED Desk Lamp: You ahve to be able to sea what you’re working on, and this lamp is all you need. It features multiple intensity levels and diffuses the light over a wide provide softer light to you’re work area, and the arm provides plenty of articulation.
Video Production and Streaming
I’m working hard to make sure every one of my videos is better than the last. While there are many things to improve on, some of that improvement comes from investing in equipment. For those of you curious as to what I use while filming, here’s the list.
Talking head shots are no fun with a big ol’ microphone clogging up the shot, which is why I invested in this Shure MVL Lavalier Microphone. I tried cheaper options before settling on this, finding the MVL to be the most affordable lavalier microphone with a noise floor that I found acceptable.
The Shure SM7B is a beast, and it sucks up energy like one as well. This is the microphone I use for voice overs, and it is overqualified for the job. If I only did videos, I wouldn’t have spent the money on this, but I also dabble in music, and this thing delivers. Just make sure the interface you have is up to the task of powering this.
I love my Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, but I want to caution that it doesn’t have the gain for something like the Shure SM7B (See the Cloudlifter below). That said, it is still a great interface that can drive most XLR microphones you would actually want to use, and works great with DAW software. I use it not just for videos, but to record guitar and vocals. The Focusrite Scarlett Solo may prove a better alternative for those not so interested in the music side of things, or even the Elgato Wave XLR, which is designed for streamers and drives 75 dB of gain, enough for even the aforementioned SM7B.
I have the Cloudlifter out of necessity. The Shure SM7B is a hungry mic, hungrier than many small interfaces can handle. The cloudlifter converts phantom power (48v) into extra gain for the SM7B. That said, it’s pricey, and for most people it makes more sense to just get an interface with higher gain to begin with.
Elgato Key Light: This is my primary light when filming. It provides a good amount of light at 2800 Lumens, good diffusion, is built like a tank, and gives me total control over white balance. You are paying a brand tax when you buy Elgato, but the integration with the Stream Deck and other Elgato products is a convenience I really appreciate.
Elgato Ring Light: When it comes time to focus on the small details, this light makes sure everything is evenly lit. It gives me complete control over white balance and intensity, and doubles as a fill like for my talking head footage.
The Stream Deck XL gives me an easy way to control my stream, and also pulls double duty by giving me access to a huge set of macro features in my productivity applications. It’s massively customizable, and each button is its own little display.
I use this Elgato Capture Card to capture footage from my DSLR camera. During streams this is how I show what I’m working on, and during video production it lets me monitor what I’m doing without having to physically be behind the camera. The HD60 S is limited to 1080p60, but its big brother, the HD60 S+ promised 4k60 with HDR10 support.
I use the Elgato Facecam during streams to provide a wider view of my work area and myself. This camera is full 1080 and has relatively good control software.